Suit terms:

Half-canvassed --

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describes a suit that has a fused interlining in the body of the coat, but where the lapels are canvas stitched as opposed to fused. *The canvas interlining in the lapels can be either hand stitched or machine stitched. *This term is often used mistakenly to describe a suit that has a canvas chest piece, which is something that every man's suit has. * *You can most often tell whether a fused suit is half-canvassed by rubbing together the front and the back of the lapel between your fingers. *If the lapels run over each other smoothly, chances are it the lapels are fused (the fusible fabric is very smooth). *If it feels a bit rough -- like canvas -- that means it is a canvassed lapel. *In some half-canvas suits, you can even see pad-stitch marks (dimples) on the underside of the lapel.

(johnnynorman3)

Fused --

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describes a coat where a soft, pliable knit fabric has been literally heat glued (like an iron on patch) to the underside of the jacket's wool fabric. *This fused fabric gives the wool a bit of body, but also makes the wool thicker and stiffer. *The fused fabric may tend to get stiffer over time, eventually causing the fabric of the suit to look bad. *

(johnnynorman3)

Full-canvas (unfused) --

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describes a coat where, instead of using a fusible fabric to give the wool body, a canvas interlining has been stitched to the seams of the entire front of the jacket from the shoulders to the bottom hem. *This interlining gives the jacket its shape without relying on fusible fabric. *As a result, the wool is in its natural state (i.e. thin, supple, and breathable). *You can most easily tell whether a suit is fused or unfused by pinching some fabric above the chest pocket; in an unfused suit, the fabric will feel just as thin as the fabric at the back of the coat, whereas in a fused suit is will feel thicker. *If you think it might feel a little bit thicker, that probably means that it is (in other words, once you perform the pinch test on an unfused suit, you will have no trouble telling in the future).

(johnnynorman3)

"2 1/2 button" --

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On a true 3-button coat, the lapel roll ends just above the top button. *The lapels are therefore quite short. *Even if you don't button the top button, the coat will look "closed" pretty much all the way up to the top button.

On a 2-button coat with an extra button, the lapel roll ends above the waist button. *The extra "idle" button remains hidden behind the rolled lapel; on the other side, you can see maybe half of the extra buttonhole.

On both of the above types of coat, the lapel roll ends in a pretty decisive fashion. *The lapel should not look "folded over" in the sense of pressed flat, but there should be a clear point where it ends.

On a 2 1/2 or "roll through" coat, the lapel roll does not so much "end" as just sort of "dissipate." *Rather than looking "folded over" right above the waist button, the lapel edge almost stands straight out. *The lapel roll is much more gradual; the line of the lapel is longer than on a true 3-button, but somewhat shorter than a 2-button. *You can see the upper idle button and buttonhole pretty clearly. *Also, the coat above the waist button is open enough that trying to button the top button would really pull and strain the chest.

This picture of a Castangia suit, worn by Renault78law, is a textbook example:

http://img16.exs.cx/img16/3350/castopera.jpg

(Manton)

Info:

What you might want to specify in a MTM/bespoke suit:

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Here's something I posted a while ago that could help with this topic (edited for clarity):

Jacket

- Lapel width

- Gorge height

- Real or false lapel buttonhole

- Button stance (high, normal, low)

- Breast pocket height (high, normal, low)

- Shoulder padding

- Armholes (tight, normal, loose)

- Sleeve taper/circumference

- Real or false sleeve buttonholes

- Number of sleeve buttons

- Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing"

- Jetted or flapped pockets

- Single, double, or no vents

- Jacket length (long, normal, short)

- Inside pockets (up to you)

Many of these options depend on your own body shape.

Trousers- Button or zipper fly

- Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled)

- Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned)

- Fork height (tight, normal, loose)

- Leg taper

- Leg width

- Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain

- Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse

- Tab closure above fly

- Belt loops or brace buttons

You might want to consider the silhouette that's best for you. You can use a RTW suit that you like as a base model. Your first suit probably won't have EVERYTHING you want it to have, simply because 1) you forget some detail or fail to prompt for it, or 2) the guy making it forgets or fails to ask. Communication is KEY.

Guidelines I use: I'm short. I'm thin. My jacket therefore has the following:

- Lapel width: A little more than half the space between the edge of the "V" and the shoulder seam

- Gorge height: Very high

- Real or false lapel buttonhole: Real (of course.

- Button stance (high, normal, low): High two-button, with the topmost button a little above my natural waist.

- Breast pocket height (high, normal, low): Normal, but my next one will be a quarter-inch higher because I'm picky.

- Shoulder padding: Minimal.

- Armholes (tight, normal, loose): Tight, meaning high.

- Sleeve taper/circumference: More so than usual, thanks to my thin wrists.

- Real or false sleeve buttonholes: Real. But this is entirely up to you. I chose real because I think the false ones look a bit too goofy, or at least the way they make false ones over here.

- Number of sleeve buttons: 4, but this has nothing to do with my body shape.

- Sleeve buttons normal or "kissing": Same here, nothing to do with my body shape. But I like kissing buttons.

- Jetted or flapped pockets: Flapped, because that's what Flusser recommends and because I sort of like them.

- Single, double, or no vents: I always go double. The vents end right at the height of my pockets.

- Jacket length (long, normal, short): Short. I hate how longer jackets make me look.

- Inside pockets (up to you): I don't use them much for anything. I think I have two regular buttoned pockets, one pen pocket, and one for a cell phone or something.

Remember: If you're getting a short, fitted jacket, get pants that either break lightly or rest on the top of your shoe. If you're going for a more roomy fit, get roomier trousers with a larger break. Nothing is more awkward than seeing a guy with a roomy jacket wearing rail-thin trousers. The whole idea is to make the transition from jacket to trousers a consistent one.

Also, the list is by no means comprehensive. A large part of a bespoke suit's styling will depend on the cooperation and vision of both customer and tailor. The best bet for "newbies" going bespoke is to model their suit after something RTW that they find the most appealing to their body.

(Alias)

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